A Week in the Emerald Isle: Long Study Tour to Ireland

For our core course’s long study tour, we spent six days in Ireland. This is the main travel experience that DIS advertises towards students, and thus our class spent a lot of time in class leading up to this week learning about the Irish economy, the European Union, and a bit of Irish culture as well. I have been very excited since day one to visit Ireland, even if it’s only for a week, but even I was feeling a little sluggish waking up bright and early at around 4:00am to make it to the 6:30am meeting time at the airport.

Day One: Dublin

We touched down in Dublin and boarded our bus from the airport towards our hotel for the evening. I had planned accordingly, with plenty of music and ebooks downloaded, but ended up glued to the window instead. The city itself has a subtle charm to it in itself, but of course the soaring church steeples, elegant bridges across the Bradogue River, and the colorful storefronts of Temple Bar provided plenty of unique character as well.

We embarked on our first cultural activity of the trip after dropping off our bags: The Brazen Head. Allegedly the oldest pub in Dublin, the Brazen Head certainly looks the part, with roughly hewn stone walls, a cozy courtyard, and beautiful wooden interiors scattered with memorabilia. A hearty serving of beef and mushroom stew (with mashed potatoes) was followed by an apple crumble and then we were off!

A short walk took us to the Guinness Storehouse, a warehouse-turned-brewery-turned-museum (from what I could figure out). There, we were guided through the manufacturing process of Guinness, the history of their brand, and the “proper” way to taste test a batch to master the four flavors essential to every brew. I learned that the Guinness logo actually predates the governmental seal that shares the same harp insignia… so the government had to mirror the icon to avoid copyright.

After another tasting at the top of the Storehouse, we were released for the day — I joined my professor and a few of my peers walking to the River Bar for the Arsenal vs. Manchester City game. We started our 30 minute walk with 15 minutes to get there; there was no way we’d arrive in time, let alone find space in the bar itself. So we chartered a horse carriage! We sped through the streets of Dublin with nary a care for stoplights or cars, and arrived with ample time to spare.

Afterwards, I ventured into the streets of Temple Bar in search of live music, tried the seafood chowder and Guinness bread at Oliver St. John Gogarty’s pub, and ended up at Bad Ass Cafe listening to a duo meld together 90s hits with Irish reels.

Day Two: Dublin (Again)

Our first academic visit of the trip took us to the Irish Parliament, where we learned about the intricacies of the Republic of Ireland’s governmental system, the future of Ireland, and the political history of the region itself. We saw the manor-turned governmental building that inspired the architecture of the White House (well, it was the same architect, James Hoban, who designed both buildings, but still!).

Afterwards, a little bit of free time took me to the Sweater Shop (where I bought a wool scarf instead of a sweater) and then across the green of Trinity College, before meeting up with my class again for afternoon tea.

Now that was fancy! The building itself was incredible, but the food was even better. I was able to try a few different teas over the course of the meal, and sampled sandwiches, scones, and sweets until we had to catch a tram to our next visit, at the Microsoft HQ.

Reminiscent of a Silicon Valley construct, the open atrium led into a hallway with live moss wall dividers and breakout rooms. We were joined by a panel of professionals who expertly fielded questions about globalization and Microsoft’s role in Ireland (and the greater EU).

Afterwards, I took a stroll down the old long walk (since it was such a fine day). I visited the National Gallery of Ireland and met Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square before making my pilgrimage to O’Donoghue’s, the bar in which the Dubliners made their musical debut.

I didn’t realize how packed this day was until I started writing it out… there’s still plenty more to add! Next, I went for a Soundwalk in St. Stephen’s Green: the golden light flickering across the water and dappling the fallen leaves joined the sonorous orchestral arrangement and provided a perfect space for reflecting and relaxing.

Day Three: Dublin > Donegal

So begins the next day of academic visits. We started off the morning at the Economic Social and Research Institute (ESRI), where we attended a lecture on Ireland’s economic outlook, infrastructural challenges, and role in Europe as a base for multinational corporations.

Afterwards, a trip to EPIC, the Irish Immigration Museum walked us through the history of Irish immigration and Irish identity as it spreads around the globe and returns back home. We also attended an information session by Geneva Trading, and ended up at the Drunken Fish for an early dinner before piling into the bus for the long bus ride up to Donegal.

We got to our hotel quite late, but I decided to head across the street to McCafferty’s bar for a little more live music (I can’t get enough of it!) — I finally started hearing some of the traditional Irish songs I knew, and happily turned in for the night.

Day Four: Donegal, Doagh, and Derry

Bright and early the next morning, we boarded the bus (yes, again) to head to the Famine Village in Doagh. The sweeping views of the ragged Irish coast took my breath away (or maybe that was the wind). The Famine Village itself was super informative on the journey through life in the north of Ireland and how society evolved since the 1840s.

From Doagh we drove to Derry for a walking tour of the city, led by a local who was deeply involved in the political conflict of the region between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. I would have loved to spend some more time in the city, but it was back to the bus and out to the countryside for a sheepdog demonstration.

I loved meeting the dogs and seeing how effective they are in herding and shaping their flocks. The communication and understanding between dog and shepherd was near-perfect. And hey, the backdrop was beautiful too.

For dinner, we stopped by Biddy’s O’Barnes Irish pub for a rich meal and a game of cards. Afterwards, a 16-seater van pulled up to carry the 19 of us to an authentic hooley in Leghowney, before our return to McCafferty’s for some good craic (and live music, of course).

Day Five: Donegal, Drogheda

We started the morning with a little free time, so I took a brief stroll through Donegal, walking past Donegal Castle and along the River Eske, ultimately ending up in MaGee. So, of course I had to buy a sweater! (Only one, I promise…)

We then went for a walk around the 7-km Leghowney Loop through the rolling hills of County Donegal. It was so beautiful, and I was bummed that it came to an end so quickly.

Then it was back on the bus for the long ride back to the eastern coast, arriving in Drogheda for a late dinner at the Scholar’s Townhouse Hotel. The meal was delightfully presented and deliciously filling. Finally, the class headed up the street to Peggy Moore’s pub for… you guessed it! More live music!

Day Six: Drogheda, Dublin

It was back to the bus early in the morning, and then we were on the rocky road to Dublin for the plane ride home.

What a trip. From Temple Bar to the sheep paddocks, and everything in between, the trip gave me a nice sampling of Ireland. I loved exploring the bustling city of Dublin and the quaint town square of Donegal, and can’t wait to return to the green and rolling hills of Ireland!